Tips To Prolong the Life of a Car Battery

Let Prolong the Life of a Car Battery

Here are some simple things you can do on a regular basis to prolong the life of your car battery, but can help you save the cost on car battery..

Step 1
When going shopping, make sure your headlights are always off and not kept on by mistake. In the older cars, Check to see if all the doors and trunk are closed properly. If it is not, usually the inside light is left on. This can run down the battery.

Step 2
Don’t leave your car running frequently for long periods of time in parking areas. Don't leave car sitting in your garage or at home for an extended period of time.

Step 3
Check the battery terminals and posts to see if there are any corrosions. Use a terminal brush and scrub off any corrosion
Corrosion in the battery terminal prevents a car from starting.

Step 4
Check the battery fluid once a month. The fluid level should be just below the bottom of the vent, for each cell. Fill any low cells with distilled water to bring them up to the necessary level.

Step 5
Take a look at battery cables and inspect them. Make sure it is not loosed or unattached.

The battery price slightly go up every year, and it's no harm to follow these
simple tips when you can save dollars on it.

Read more »

Fitting a Car Performance Body Kit

How To Match Your Car Performance Body Kit

Choosing the right car performance body kit for your vehicle depends upon whether you're adding these features for performance, style or a combination of both. In addition, cost and materials can be significant factors when you select the skirt, spoilers and bumpers for your car.

Step 1
Select a car performance body kit based upon your specific performance needs. For instance, a ground skirt kit can improve aerodynamics and reduce the amount of lift underneath your car, which could cause you to lose control at high speeds. A spoiler on the rear deck lid can also reduce wind resistance and carve a few tenths of a second off your sprint times.

Step 2
Choose a body kit for your performance car based upon the materials used and the overall cost of those materials. For instance, fiberglass offers a better-looking level of fit and finish over urethane and is less expensive, but it is easily damaged in collisions. In addition, new types of resin-infused fiberglass have been developed in the United States in recent years, which combine the strengths of both materials at a significantly higher cost.

Step 3
Ask for the manufacturer's recommendations when you select a car performance body kit. By checking with the car maker, you may be able to find a body kit that has been designed with your specific make and model in mind. By picking a body kit that has been approved by the manufacturer, you may reduce the chances of voiding your warranty due to excessive modifications.

Step 4
Seek the advice of a respected body kit installer for a specific recommendation for your vehicle. These installers should have a lot of experience with what does and doesn't work out in the street and on the track. Ask for references, look at their portfolios and discuss your options.

Step 5
Use online resources, such as Mudah.my or any other Car Modifications sites, to select the right body kit for your performance car (see Resources beside). Many of these websites offer virtual galleries so that you can see mock-ups of the body kits on your specific vehicle before you make a purchase.

Read more »

Searching Or Buying Tires?

Tire buying tips: what to consider when purchasing tires.

Walking into a tire store can be, and often is to say the least confusing for those of us who don’t buy tires that often. For the most part, as long as there are four tires on the car, most people are satisfied.

But when taking a stronger interest in the type of tires that are mounted on a car, the whole area of “tires” opens up, and we find there’s more to this tire buying than just bringing the car in to a tire shop and having four new tires put on.

A tire is an important functional part of any vehicle. Outside of the engine and its various parts, without the tire, no car, no truck, or no bus will get from point A to point B or any other point for that matter.
Sometimes we can’t always based our decision to buy a tire based on the name of the tire if it is a well known brand, or because the price is in a higher bracket than other selections of tires. A little homework will help us make a wiser decision when purchasing a tire.

First off the U.S. Government rates tires according to safety and mileage and by learning what these specifications are will help us decide what is best for our needs. Treadware traction, and heat resistance are some of the factors that should be seriously considered when making a purchase. Tire dealers can and should provide this information to the discerning consumer.

Treadware gives the expected mileage. This is shown by numbers, i.e. 300, 400, 500, etc. The higher the number, the more the expected mileage.

Traction grades provides a basis on how well tires will stop on a wet surface. “A” Grade of course being the better tire, thereby stopping in a shorter distance than Grade “B. We can see here that by purchasing the better grade, if we live in a climate where rain is a factor, we are better off paying a bit more by buying the higher-grade tire.

Grading a tire by “Heat Resistance” is also an important consideration, especially for those who live in the warmer climates. Again, deciding on a better grade will in the long run prevent driving on a tire that may not be suitable or does not wear well in the hotter climates.

Tires are also rated by speed. Checking the ‘”owner’s manual” will provide that information, ensuring that the manufacturer’s suggested requirements are kept in mind when making the purchase.

Also, when having these tires mounted keep in mind that some stores may charge extra for balancing and mounting, thereby upping the total cost of the tire. This happened to me and the "great" sale did not turn out so great.

Other considerations: When driving on mostly paved roads and highways as opposed to off-road, a smooth road tire (aka street tire) should be a consideration.

When driving equally on paved road, highways, and off roads, then an all-terrain tire should be a consideration.

When driving mostly off-road, and occasionally on paved roads/highway, then an “off-road” tire should be considered.

Again, doing one’s homework, becoming well informed, knowing what to look for, what is required by a manufacturer in terms of their own specifications for buying tires will ensure that a correct decision is made when purchasing this product.

Read more »

Getting Closer To Toyota Caldina GT4

Toyota Caldina GT4 is the only MPV used as a First Rescue Operation (FRO) car at the Japan GT 2003 (AUTOBACS), Fuji Circuit. This means this MPV is not just standard family mini van, its raciey!. Sad this model are not in production anymore and last generation is in 2005. Many model we see on the road are the late 2003 model.

Now without Caldina GT4 model in the market, closest sportiest MPV we can get maybe Honda Stream or Toyota Wish



GENERAL
Body type Wagon
Drive FULL 4WD
Transmission Super intelligent 4 speed automatic (Super ECT)
Displacement, cc 1998
Frame LA-ST246W-DWPZZ
Price of new car, thousands yen (Tokyo area) 2710 (~$22500)

SPECIFICATION (SPECS)
EXTERIOR

Exterior dimensions (LxWxH), mm 4510 x 1740 x 1445
Interior dimensions (LxWxH), mm 1905 x 1455 x 1165
Wheel base, mm 2700
Treads (F/R), mm 1505 / 1505
Ground clearance, mm 145
Curb vehicle weight, kg 1480
Gross vehicle weight, kg
Seating capacity, persons 5
Doors number 5
Min.turning radius, m 5.6
Fuel tank capacity, l 60

ENGINE

Displacement, cc 1998
Engine model 3S-GTE
Max.power (Net), kw(PS)/rpm 260 ps (191.23 kw) / 6200 rpm
Max.torque(Net), N*m(kg*m)/rpm 33.0 kg*m (323.62 N*m) / 4400 rpm
Power density 5.69
Engine type Serial 4 cylinder DOHC16 valve turbo
Engine information
Fuel system EFI (electronic fuel injection) (Ci (central injection)
Turbocharger Turbo
Fuel type Unleaded premium gasoline
LEV system (Low emission vehicle) Yes
Compression ratio 9
Bore, mm 86
Stroke, mm 86
Final gear ratio
Fuel consumption at 10-15 modes, l/100km 9.4
Fuel consumption at 60 km/h, l/100km

CHASSIS / TRANSMISSION

Power steering Yes
Tires size, front 215/45ZR17
Tires size rear 215/45ZR17
Braking system, front Ventilated disk
Braking system, rear Disk
Suspension system, front Strut type coil spring (stabilizer attaching)
Suspension system, rear Double wishbone type coil spring (stabilizer attaching)

EQUIPMENT
EXTERIOR EQUIPMENT

Sunroof / Moonroof Option
Front fog lamp Present
Rear fog lamp Option
Xenon headlight (Discharge lamp) Present
Projector headlight Not Present
Rear wiper Present
Front spoiler Present
Rear or roof spoiler Present
ABS (Antilock brake system) Present
TCS (Traction control system) Present
LSD (Limited slip differential) Not Present
Privacy glass Present
UV cutting glass Present
Aluminium wheel 17 inch standard

INTERIOR EQUIPMENT
Air conditioner Full automatic
Wood panel Option
Cruise control Not Present
Centralized door lock Present
Power window Present
Steering wheel telescopic Not Present
Steering wheel tilt Present
Leather steering wheel Present
Power front seat Not Present
Power rear seat Not Present
Leather seat Not Present
Falling down type rear seat Divided type
Child seat fixed with seat belt Present
Rear ELR3 point seat belt Present
Front seat pretensioner seat belt Present
Fourth limited front seat belt Present
Side impact bar Present
Airbag (Driver) Present
Airbag (Passenger) Present
Airbag (Side) Option
Audio deck AM/FM radio equipped MD player
CD-player Connected equipment
Car navigation system Option

Read more »

Choosing Satria Neo Or Myvi SE

The New Proton Satria Neo maybe one of your choice of car to buy. Before you decide to buy it, it is better to read some info and reviews about this hatcback sports car from Proton. Maybe now you are comparing between Satria Neo VS Perodua Myvi VS GEN2 VS SAGA BLM etc. Bear in mind, stick to what you choose, the design, performance or comfort. But clearly this car fits all of the above characteristic. Except that it is actually small inside but look big outside due to the “wide body kit” styling at the wheel arc and bumpers. Many of the user of Satria Neo are complaining about the fuel comsumption because it uses the first generation of campro engine. But then, it also has a very attractive factors which is the sporty design.

The Proton Satria Neo was introduced in June 2006 as a replacement for the first generation Satria. Based on a new platform developed in-house by Proton (with some parts borrowed from the bigger Gen-2 and Waja), the car is currently only available in a three-door hatchback guise. The car was developed at a cost of RM500 million and four years, and was expected by Proton to generate a monthly sales volume of 2,000 to 2,500 units. The car was also intended to target those who are “youthful and sporty”. The Satria Neo was launched by Malaysian Prime Minister Abdullah Ahmad Badawi.

The entry-level Satria Neo, the 1.3 L-line, is powered by a 1.3 litre, inline-4 twin-cam Campro engine, producing 94 bhp (70 kW) at 6000 rpm and 120 N m of torque at 4000 rpm. The 1.6 M-line and top-of-the-range H-line models have 1.6 litre versions of the same engine, with an output of 110 hp (82 kW) at 6000 rpm and 148 N m of torque at 4000 rpm. Both the M-line and H-line models have active system antennae which actively search for signals in areas with poor reception. All cars have the option of either 5-speed manual or 4-speed automatic gearboxes supplied by Mitsubishi that are carried over from the previous Satria, with the H-line benefitting from safety features such as twin airbags, ABS with EBD and seatbelt pre-tensioners. All versions of the car come with an integrated Blaupunkt CD player.

With a 0-62mph time of 11.5 seconds and a top speed of 200kph, the 1.6-engined test car is not fast but it is quick. Besides, with traffic conditions and legal limitations in Malaysia, the performance figures are more than adequate.

The Proton Satria Neo comes with just two engine choices; 1.3- and 1.6-litre, petrol units. Only the latter is available with a 4-speed automatic transmission but there is a penalty to making that choice - poorer fuel consumption about 10-14km/l, a slower sprint time and greater CO2 emissions than with the 5-speed manual box.

If emissions and frugality are important to you, it is better to go for the 1.6 manual. Official figures are posted as; 27.9mpg (urban), 61.4mpg (extra-urban) and 42.8mpg for the combined cycle. In this format, the Satria Neo exhausts 157g/km CO2, which puts it in VED Band D and the insurance is Group 7.

The 1.6 engine produces 112PS (111bhp) at 6,000rpm and 148Nm (109 lb ft) at 4,000rpm The same collaborative engines and transmission can also be found in the GEN-2 but for the Satria, they have been tweaked for better low to medium acceleration and flexibility.

Criticisms of the car include the lack of headroom and legroom for rear passengers (even compared to the previous generation Satria), and lacklustre performance in comparison with the Satria GTi. The infamous torque dip of Proton’s Campro engine is also present.

Read more »

Hyundai i10 versus Perodua Viva - Compact wars!

Here Comes The New Challenger!

Hyundai Sime-Darby Motor has launched the new Hyundai i10 5-door hatchback in Malaysia. The i10 replaces the Atos in the Hyundai global line-up but in certain countries like India, both the Atos (Santro) and the i10 is offered, with the latter being the more premium product. In fact, the i10 we get here comes from India where both the Atos and i10 are very very popular products, instead of Korea.

All the basics that will make the new Hyundai a popular runabout are there: a small luggage space extendable via the foldable rear seats and a 4-speed automatic. It chugs along via a 1.1 liter Epsilon family engine (sadly not the new Kappa 1.2 liter) putting out 65.8 horsepower at 5,500rpm and 99.1Nm of torque at a lower than usual 2,800rpm which should allow it to feel pretty zippy around town.

Safety features include a 4-star Euro NCAP body, dual SRS airbags and anti-lock brakes. In-car entertainment is an integrated 2-DIN audio CD player with MP3 and aux input support. The interior is rather monotonous and basic with endless fields of grey but there is a slight touch of “high-end” thanks to the dash-mounted shift lever instead of it being in the conventional position between the two front seats.

So you have decent safety specs, an acceptable level of in-car entertainment, an automatic gearbox, an engine that puts out peak torque at a low-mid RPM, and a price under RM50k. This should theoretically be very popular with city dwellers, especially since its claimed to have a 17.2km per liter combined fuel economy. It’s also got nice styling, being the first Hyundai car in Malaysia with the new naming scheme and design language that debuted with the i30. But Malaysians are just too brand conscious.

The 4-speed auto model retails for RM48,888 OTR with insurance and comes with a 5-year (300,000km) warranty. It is available in five colours: alpine blue, blushing red, stone black, sleek silver and champagne gold. A 5-speed manual version (that is claimed to get 20km per liter) is also available but strangely Hyundai’s press kit does not mention its price. This story will be updated later when the price is available.

The badging on the car is a little confusing but somehow expected. It has a combination of both Inokom and Hyundai logos and badges around the car.

Read more »

DVVT, VVT-i, MIVEC and VTEC

Here's the comparison about various engines specs.


The main change between Perodua Viva and it's predecessors (Perodua Kelisa and Perodua Kancil) would be their engines. Then it came the term of DVVT, and Perodua claiming their 1.3l DVVT saves fuel and provide power as same as normal 1.5l engines.

Let get back to the basics, DVVT or it's full name Daihatsu Valve Variable Timing is based (copycat) on Daihatsu mother company Toyota engine, which is VVT-i (Variable Valve Timing - intelligence). We believe that DVVT is just VVT-i's engine brand name for Daihatsu cars. DVVT and VVT-i is based by Yamaha's YPVS (Yamaha Power Valve System).

Yamaha was bought over by Toyota for it's YPVS because Toyota afraid of losing to Mitsubishi's MIVEC and Honda's Vtec. Yamaha has been provinding Toyota and Daihatsu engines since. DVVT and VVT-i engines are always put together to be compared with V-tec (Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control System), i-DSI (intelligent Dual and Sequential Ignition) that is developed by Honda earlier.

All of the Vs (DVVT, VVT-i, i-DSI, Vtec, CVCC, MIVEC, CVVT...) was meant to increase fuel efficiency which is to use less fuel and produce more power from the engine. The objective is the same, the only difference would be their methods. DVVT and VVT-i Normal engines is good in the low RPM. However, when the RPM reaches higher level, the amount of power produced per fuel is lesser. This is because the air from outside the engine couldn't get into the combustion space in a short period of time.


That's what Yamaha sees, and they developed YPVS, VVT-i and DVVT. DVVT and VVT-i valve works like a normal engine while in low RPM. However, as the RPM increases, the valve timer shifts the time of opening of the valve a little bit earlier. The higher the RPM goes, the earlier the valve opens. By doing this, air would have enough time to go into the ignition room, thus making the fuel burning in high RPM more efficient than conventional internal combustion engine.

Vtec have the same idea with DVVT and VVT-i. It acts like a normal fossil combustion engine in low RPM, however when the user revs until certain limit (usuall 5000rpm).



The valve timer would activate (this is what people usually calls Vtec change) and produce a noisy sound. It sounds a little bit like a 2-stroke motorcycle engine revs high. You feel like the torque suddenly increases and you have more power to accelerate. What actually happens is that the valve intake open longer than normal.

Allowing more air to come into the combustion chamber. The more air in the chamber, the more efficient the fuel burns. i-DSI i-DSI is a new technology by Honda. Instead of changing the valve timing of an engine, Honda put two spark plugs on each piston. The reason is the same, to burn the fossil more efficiently.

These spark plugs however have the main and secondary plugs. The main plugs usually sparks first, followed by the secondary plugs to burn the remaining gas in the chamber.

Conclusion DVVT, VVT-i, Vtec and i-DSI is a good way developed by Japanese car automaker (Toyota and Honda) to improve the burning of fossil gas. All of them have the same objective (increase efficiency) and they do achieve their goals.

Perodua now have implement DVVT engines in Perodua Kelisa and Perodua Kancil replacements (Perodua Viva). people are waiting that Perodua would implement a 7-gear no gap gearbox (like Honda Jazz) in their future installments, because that surely would increase the fuel efficiency of a car.

Read more »